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pizza marketing, australia, new zealand
September 2003
pizza marketing, australia, new zealand

Ease of Cheese


If you believe the tale, mozzarella was first invented when cheese curds accidentally fell into a pail of hot water in a factory in Italy. Soon after, it was used on a flat disc of pastry with tomato sauce and baked, thus creating the first pizza. The rest, as they say is history.

Browning Of course, these days, manufacturers leave nothing to chance and the production of mozzarella and its use is far more thought out. The cheese does have a long history and at one time was made almost exclusively from buffalo milk. That is not the case today. However, since Australia has never been blessed with great herds of that particular animal, buffalo mozzarella is not part of our history anyway.

Australian mozzarella has almost always been made exclusively with cow's milk - a product of high moisture content often described as soft, creamy, stretchy, oozy and appropriately cheesy tasting. And, we have won our fair share of awards for the native product too.

Although nobody is quite sure how long Australian companies have been producing mozzarella (the debate continues as to who made it first, there is no denying that the production and sales of the product started to jump with the first waves of post-war Italian migrants to the country and jumped in the '60s and '70s when Australians fell out of love with the milk-bar and into a long term relationship with the pizzeria.

These days, Australia is both a mozzarella producer for the local market and an international exporter, though most of the cheese produced here is destined for the nation's pizzas. One of the largest dairy producers in Australia, Dairy Farmers, has been making mozzarella for over 25 years-first in its Woodford plant near Brisbane and then in its Toowoomba factory has a huge capacity and was rebuilt with expansion in mind, depending on how the market developed. And, if the market continues to expand as expected, it may well be increasing capacity again. International demand for the product continues to grow.

Australian's have a huge appetite for pizza consuming an estimated 133 million pizzas a year (that's seven pizzas per person), so a lot of mozzarella is required.

Dairy Farmer's Toowoomba plant manager Ian Fletcher says that while the domestic market has been growing for some years, he predicts that the next wave of the growth in mozzarella sales will be overseas.

Caboolture "The home market will always be our main commitment," Fletcher said. "But we are exporting a significant volume of Caboolture Mozzarella overseas, and we expect that to grow within the next few years particularly in parts of Asia and the Middle East. As these countries are becoming more aware of Western foods, so is the demand for certain products like mozzarella for pizza, which a lot of countries do not yet produce domestically."

As any manufacturer will tell you, all pizza cheeses are not alike and Fletcher points that out. As an example, the product Dairy Farmers sells to the Koreans is less salty, has a different mouth feel and different cooking characteristics than for the domestic market.

Storage, Freezing, and Thawing

Another important factor in the flavor of cheese is the manner in which it is stored. Cheese should be stored in airtight containers to protect the flavor and freshness. Optimal storage temperatures are between 5.56 and 10 degrees Celsius. While it can be frozen, there are certain characteristics that need to be noted about the properties of certain cheeses. First, cheese must be frozen quickly to prevent it from becoming crumbly. It doesn't need to be freeze-dried or IQF frozen, but it doesn't need to be placed in the freezer in large blocks because the inner core will take longer to freeze and will become, as I just mentioned, crumbly. If you get it in large blocks, it is best to cut it into half-kilogram bricks no more than two and a half centimeters thick, to ensure an even and more rapid freezing. Make sure to rewrap it to prevent moisture loss. You may want to consult your cheese supplier about the softer cheeses. If you do use cheese that has been or will be frozen, it is best to use low-moisture varieties or buy pre-frozen, pre-shredded or blended cheeses. If the cheese develops mold, simply cut below the mold and you'll be OK, but if it is very moldy, in more than three or four spots, you will be better off to trash it.

Aged cheeses' flavors are not affected by freezing because much of the moisture has been removed in the ripening process, but it can have a negative affect on the body and texture. A cheese that has been frozen slowly will be softer when thawed, harder to shred and will brown faster. Shelf life in the freezer is around 12 months and thawed is around 14 days. Older cheese will over-melt and become "soupy" when cooked. If you are going to use frozen cheese it is better to buy it already shredded and frozen.

There are certain guidelines to follow when thawing cheese, too. Always thaw cheese slowly in the refrigerator and never refreeze it. It may look uneven in color while frozen, but will return to its original color when completely thawed. Some of the soft and semi-soft cheeses can be shredded better when partially frozen, but they all need to be used as soon as possible after being thawed. Remember, cheese that is in a refrigerator will continue to ripen causing the flavor and performance to change, but cheese will cease to ripen as long as it is frozen.


Profiles

Cheese Differences

Moisture Levels The same can be said for the large pizza groups who want to differentiate themselves as much as possible from each other. One of the ways they do it is through the mozzarella formula they use. Dairy Farmers supplies most of the major pizza chains in Australia and have worked with them to develop their own formulas. For example: some wanted a mozzarella with longer stretch or different moisture content or that browned slightly differently.

According to Richards, mozzarella making is like making a will-loved type of wine and that means it has to be consistent. "The milk we receive in the factory depends on many things like where the cows have been grazed or the type of cow they are or the season of the year and so on. It is up to our cheese makers to work with the product in hand and alter the manufacturing process, if need be, to bring it up to the standard as expected. Consistency is paramount and this is the same process as wine making," Richards adds.

Making mozzarella is not difficult and differs little for other cheeses. Once the milk has come in and been assessed it is then standardized in terms of fat to protein ratio. After pasteurization, the starter culture is added and the cheese becomes acidified. The curds and whey are separated and then the curd continues to develop in acidity, after which it is salted and stretched and then matured in blocks. The whole process from farm to plate (or cow to customer) can be as short as ten days depending on the variety required.

Mozzarella
Most commonly used on pizzas because of its superior melting and stretching abilities. A white cheese with delicate, mild flavor can be found as semi-hard or fresh varieties.

Monterey Jack
Semi-hard creamy white cheese with semi-firm to firm texture and smooth, mild flavor. Comes in flavored varieties such as hot pepper, jalapeno, garlic, onion and pesto. A California original.

Brie
Mild, rich soft-ripened cheese with an edible white rind. Brie has a soft, creamy white interior that becomes more flavorful as the cheese ages.

Swiss
A mild, pale yellow cheese with a tangy, sweet, nutty flavor. Best recognized by the holes or eyes that develop as the cheese ripens.

Dry Jack
Very hard aged dry version of Monterey Jack with a delicious nutty flavor. An excellent replacement for Parmesan and California original.

Asiago
Piquant, sharp light yellow, Italian-style cheese that can be very hard in texture depending on age, similar to Parmesan.

Oaxaca
A firm white Hispanic-style cheese with a mild, sweet milky taste. Similar to Mozzarella and is distinguished by its distinctive, braided appearance.

Edam
Semi-hard mild yellow cheese with a firm texture that is similar to Gouda.

Feta
A salty, pungent white cheese with a dry, crumbly firm to hard texture.

Panela
Mild, firm, white Hispanic-style cheese with sweet milky flavor.

Gouda
Semi-hard creamy yellow cheese with firm texture and mild, nutty flavor.

Provolone
Hard or semi-hard light yellow cheese with flavor ranging from mild to sharp to smoky.

Cheddar
Cheddar describes a family of very popular and versatile cheeses available in a range of flavors from mild to very sharp.

Fontina
A firm, light yellow, mild nutty flavored cheese, similar to Gouda or Edam.

Telema
A mild, creamy white cheese with a slightly tangy aftertaste. A California Original.

Do You Know . . .


Cheese Differences


Melt Ability All companies will undertake compositional testing a number of times in the manufacturing process, both during production and at least once if the cheese has been shredded or grated. It is in the latter that Dairy Farmers will also cook up the cheese to see how it handles on the pizza. The cheese is tested for taste, stretch, blister size, Colour, melt properties and the oiling off of the product - all crucial to pizza makers. These will show if the product is ready to go.

For all its commitment to the pizza making industry, Dairy Farmers is proud of its work with independent pizza operators specialising in the gourmet sector. Not only are these smaller operations stretching the boundaries in terms of inventiveness, they are helping to raise the profile of the whole pizza industry. Its commitment to this market is evidenced in the National Best of the Best National Pizza Challenge that encourages pizza operators to stretch their imagination and compete with other operators. They use a lot of mozzarella on those pizzas and who knows, in time maybe pizza will replace the meatpie as Australia's national dish!

PMQ

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pizza marketing, australia, new zealand
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pizza marketing, australia, new zealand